YOUR CHIHUAHUA PUP
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OTHER IMPORTANT BITS
SHOW DOG OR PET CHIHUAHUA?
It is well to define in your own mind the purpose for which you want a dog, and convey this to the breeder. A great deal of disappointment and dissatisfaction can be avoided by a meeting of the minds between seller and buyer. If you want a busy active puppy and receive a puppy that is laid-back then you will not be happy with your new companion.
{ FOR EXAMPLE} Do you want to hike all over the country side then you want a puppy that has energy to spare? do you want a puppy to cuddle and watch TV with then a busy active puppy will not bring a lot of peace and comfort. If you are looking for a guard dog then this will definitely not be the proper breed for you.
CHOOSING A RELIABLE BREEDER Never buy a Chihuahua less than 10-12 weeks old. The stress of moving to a new home can trigger all sorts of systemic disorders in toy breeds, especially parvovirus, corona virus, démodé tic mange, and low blood sugar. No responsible breeder will EVER sell a Chihuahua before 10-12 weeks. These early weeks need to be stress-free, with no major changes in a tiny dog’s life. Tiny dogs need frequent feeding, weighing, and monitoring to keep their weight and blood sugar levels stable. Get health certificates, a signed, dated bill of sale, and a written guarantee that states your recompense in case of a problem; confirm CKC registration of the parents and your puppy; insure that your dog has been permanently identified, and ask if the breeder is a member of CKC or AKC. Reliable breeders and pet shops will urge you to take your puppy to the veterinarian of your choice to have the puppy’s health checked, and will allow you at least two days to have it done. It should be clearly understood rejection by a veterinarian for health reasons means that you have the choice of another puppy from another litter or that you simply get your money back. Be sure to get details of this policy before you purchase any puppy. Get Ask for references. Do remember that not all reliable breeders will allow you to see the puppies before their first shots. There are so many deadly diseases that can be carried on your clothing, shoes, hands or even car tires. EXAMPLE: Parvovirus: “Parvo” is a highly contagious, deadly disease that is transported on shoes and clothing. It can live in infected ground for 5 months or more if the conditions are favourable. If is accidentally introduced to a kennel is almost impossible to destroy and may cause the death of every puppy in the litter because it is so very virulent. There is no treatment to kill the virus once it infects the dog. Protecting the babies against diseases and should be the most import thing for any breeder not the gossip of a maybe future parent. The future health of every puppy depends on the choices that each breeder makes.
Dr. Christina Chambreau D.V.M. talks about yearly vaccinations:.
People don't need yearly revaccinations. And veterinarians and immunological researchers now tell us: Neither do dogs and cats.
A vaccine does not attack disease.
A vaccine IS a disease.
- A vaccine contains a weakened (diluted) version of an actual disease such as distemper or parvovirus.
- When your dog is injected with this vaccine, his immune system is supposed to react by forming antibodies against that disease.
- These antibodies (created by his own immune system) are what protect him in case he comes in contact with the real disease.
A practice that was started many years ago that lacks scientific validity or verification is annual revaccinations. Almost without exception there is no immunologic requirement for annual revaccination. Immunity to viruses persists for years or for the life of the animal. Successful vaccination to most bacterial pathogens produces an immunologic memory that remains for years."
So repeating vaccinations doesn't “boost” immunity at all. Re-vaccinating an already-immune dog offer no benefit, because the previous immunity inactivates the vaccine. Your dog can’t get “more” immune.
Dr. Charles Loops D.V.M. talks about the dangers of vaccines: .
“The first thing that must change is the myth that vaccines are harmless. Veterinarians and animal guardians have to come to realise that they are not protecting animals from disease by annual vaccinations, but in fact, are destroying the health and immune systems of these same animals they love and care for.”
Dr. Christina Chambreau D.V.M. agrees:
“Routine vaccinations are probably the worst thing that we do for our animals. They cause all types of illnesses. Repeating vaccinations on a yearly basis undermines the whole energetic well-being of our animals. Veterinary immunologists tell us that vaccines need only be given once or twice in an animal’s life. First, there is no need for annual vaccinations and, second, they definitely cause chronic disease.”
Dr. Pedro Rivera D.V.M. says vaccines cause chronic disease:“Vaccinosis is the reaction from common inoculations. Reactions might take months or years to show up. In our practice, we’ve seen hypothyroidism, ear infections, immune-system diseases, joint maladies, and behavioural problems as reactions to over-vaccination.”
THE DANGERS OF VACCINATING
Description: Because Toy Breeds are so small as puppies and because vaccine manufacturers recommend giving the same amount of vaccine to a Tiny Chihuahua, Maltese or Maltepoos as to a Saint Bernard, these small breeds may be more susceptible to vaccine related problems.
Possible Symptoms: Lethargy, depression, and possibly death.
Treatment: Vaccines are a very controversial subject and one you should discuss with your veterinarian. The information presented here is just an opinion and not to be used as a substitute for proper veterinary advice. Many Chihuahua breeders were losing puppies a few days after giving vaccines (especially the tiny ones) and once they started giving half doses of vaccines (the killed vaccines rather than the modified live ones), and they quit losing their puppies.
Logically, you would wonder: “Why give the same dose of a vaccine to a 90 pound dog that you would to a 3 pound dog? “ Even within the breeding community, there is dissension about which vaccines to give.
One breeder has quit giving the Leptospirosis Vaccine to their puppies based upon research at Kansas State University that suggests that there are more reactions to this vaccine than to others, and that Leptospirosis is pretty rare.
Another breeder has not had any problems with this particular vaccine, although it is not given to their pups until 4 months of age. In the final analysis, the decision when and how much to vaccinate is left to the owner’s and their veterinarian’s discretion.
PICKING YOUR PUPPY IN PERSON
Picking out a healthy, attractive little fellow to join the family circle is a different matter from picking a show dog; it is also a great deal less complicated. Often the puppy will pick you. If he does, and it is mutual admiration at first sight, he is the best puppy for you. Trust your eyes and hands to tell if the puppy is sound in body and temperament. Ears, nose and eyes should not have a suspicious discharge. Legs should have strong bones; bodies should have solid muscles. Coats should be clean. Lift the hair to see that the skin is free of scales and parasites.
PUPPY PROOFING YOUR HOME AND YARD
It is very important for the safety and health of your new puppy that you prepare for his homecoming by “puppy proofing” your house. Ideally, you should get on your on your hands and knees the puppy’s level. Crawl or look around each room that the puppy is allowed in to see what your puppy could get into.
Look for such items as electrical cords, poisonous plants; dangerous items that your puppy could chew or swallow that could hurt your puppy. If you have special items in your home that could be damaged, move the item until your puppy is older. Favourite things to chew on are throw rugs, toys and paper of any kind!
p>NOTE: anything swallowed that cannot pass through the pup’s system will require surgery to remove.
It is best to purchase child gates to secure your pup in a room that provides a safe environment. Select the room where can see you and you can see him/her all the time. If you are not watching your puppy, put him into his crate or puppy playpen. (Indoor/outdoor exercise pens can be purchased from your local pet store or thru internet shopping. http://www.petedge.com is wonderful one that I use.(
If there are items that you do NOT or cannot move and your puppy is finding very chewable, you can spray them with a chew repellent. There are a number of products on the market and some work better than others. Ask your retail store what product sells the best. A sharply spoken !NO! when pup starts to chew is also a good idea.
Among the greatest hazards to a pup are the exits from your home! Puppies are very fast and often not very obedient so doors should be carefully closed and children must be taught not to hold the door open or the pup will escape. A fenced yard is a requirement. Add the words !Sit! and !Stay! to your early home training and require the pup to be in position before opening the door, once he has learned these commands.
Carefully walk your entire fence line. Look for loose or broken boards that may provide an escape route for your puppy. Make sure there are no gaps under the fence providing escape from your yard. Check to see that each gate latches securely every time. Then make sure your children, gardeners, or anyone else with access to your backyard knows to close and latch each gate every time they enter or leave your property. If you are still unsure about your fence and gates never let the puppy out in your backyard without being on a leash and being supervised. The other solution is to set up an outdoor run by putting two exercise pens together and placing the ex-pens either on your patio, lawn or a combination of both areas.
You need to take extra care if you have a swimming pool that the puppy can fall into. Swimming pools can be very attractive to a curious pup. He/she might not realize that he cannot “walk on water” or he may accidentally fall in while playing too closely around the pool. This is also true for any body of water in your yard. Be sure to bath your puppy well if you do have him in the pool the pool chemicals are harmful to his coat and need to be shampooed out.
One last word of warning is to NEVER leave your puppy in your backyard when you are not at home to supervise him. You could come home and find him missing or badly injured. Please take care to ensure his safety whether you are home or away.
Many plants may be poisonous to dogs. If you are unsure if the plant that your puppy has eaten is poisonous, a listing of poisonous plants along with pictures of the plants is provided on the Purdue website at http://vet.purdue.edu/depts/addl/toxic/cover1.htm. Remember, every minute counts if your puppy has been poisoned. Contact your vet immediately.
Before you bring a puppy home, it is a good to get rid of any fleas or ticks that are living on your property. It maybe a good idea if your area has a lot of fleas to have your home and yard sprayed for fleas and ticks. Do this a few weeks before your puppy is scheduled to arrive. If you have other pets already, make sure all of them are flea-free. Outside cats especially attract fleas.
Above all else, enjoy your new puppy in the safe environment you created for him. If you feel your home and yard are “child proof” then your puppy should be safe there, too. Remember to supervise your puppy closely when you first bring him home to make sure you have not missed something dangerous to his safety.
CHOOSING AN ADULT DOG
Such a puchase has definite advantages in that it often allows freedom from housebreaking chores and rigorous feeding schedules, and these are a definite benefit to prospective purchasers who have little time to spare.
THE CHIHUAHUA PUPPY’S FIRST NIGHT
The puppy’s first night at home is likely to be disturbing to the family. Keep in mind that suddenly being away from his mom, brothers and sisters is a new experience for him too; he may be confused and frightened.
If you have a special room in which you have his bed, be sure that there is nothing there with which he can harm himself. Be sure that all lamp cords are out of his reach and that there is nothing that he can tip or pull over. Check furniture that he might get stuck under or behind and objects that he might chew. If want him to sleep in your room he probably will be quiet all night, reassured by your presence.
Again I would like to suggest a puppy playpen or an ex-pen that you can obtain from a pet store. With one of those he has less chance of getting into something that can harm him.
NOTE: Use a soft, small, light weight blanket for your puppy. Be sure that it isn’t so large that he can get tangled in. Chihuahua babies like to cover up when they are cold.
If left in a room by himself he will cry and howl, and you will have to steel yourself to be impervious to his whining. After a few nights alone he should adjust. The first night that he is alone it is wise to put a loud ticking alarm clock and a hot water bottle wrapped so that the puppy cannot burn himself as well as his toys, in the room with him. The alarm clock will make a comforting noise and the heat from the hot water bottle will comfort him.
YOUR CHIHUAHUA PUPPY’S BED
Chihuahua’s like small spaces to sleep in so make sure that the puppy has a small bed or crate ’ nothing so large that he feels in danger with. Remembering that chihuahua’s are small and can feel as if there is danger coming from all over. So make sure that the puppy has a comfortable bed but one that he can stretch out in or curl up in but not a very much larger.
Chihuahua’s like to use blanket to cover themselves when they feel cold. I know that all my Chihuahua’s all use their blankets and Kalyn likes to have her own little pillow or doggy too.
FEEDING YOUR CHIHUAHUA PUPPY
Feeding guides are only guides. My rule of thumb is to give the puppy a meal and let him eat until he walks away. After 10 to 15 minutes take the remaining food away if it has been moistened with water then throw the excess away and clean his dish. If he finishes the food before he walks away then add a little more. Puppies will eat until they are full. If the puppy doesn’t finish his meal do not give him more food the next feeding trying to make up what he missed just feed him until he walks away.
As your pup becomes more mature, you will want to decrease the number of meals he is fed every day. A small puppy’s stomach can not cope with large amounts of food, so in the first three to four months of life (Chihuahua’s mature faster) he will need to have his daily ration divided into four small meals. As a puppy, food should be fed small portions frequently. While young, the puppy’s activity level is high and you will want to be sure there is enough food eatten to develop properly and steadily gain weight.
The best guide as to when to cut out a meal is your puppy, he will reach a point where one meal is being eaten less enthusiastically. The best meal to cut out initially is a mid day one. Avoid the temptation to cut out the last meal of the day. Many people hope this will lead to fewer night time messes to clear up, but in fact the opposite may be true.
The night is a long time on an empty stomach, and if the pup awakes and feels hungry he will find it hard to settle again and is more likely to need to potty and chew on something. At six months or so, the number of meals can be cut from three to two. Continue feeding two meals per day.
Remember to keep a bowl of fresh clean water near your dog’s food bowl at all times.
SIGNS OF A HYPOGLYCEMIA EPISODE
One of the things you need to worry about with a Baby Chihuahua is eating. Make sure you know when the puppy has eaten and how much. These babies can eat small amount but must not miss meals.
A baby Chihuahua that has missed too many meals can have hypoglycemic episode. If you know that the puppy has not been eating properly or has any of the signs below take the puppy immediately to the Vet for treatment. This is a serious matter and must be attended very quickly.
SYMPTOMS OF HYPOGLYCEMIA
Mild Hypoglycemia: This can be treated immediately with your dog’s food. Regular dog food can counteract dropping sugar levels. If regular food is refused than try offering food he/she really enjoys. Anything is all right in this situation. However, monitor your dog’s condition for a few hours and watch for further signs of hypoglycaemia. Contact your vet immediately if the symptoms persist.
Moderate Hypoglycaemia: Our best suggestion is to use corn syrup by itself or mixed with food. This can assist bringing the dog’s sugar level back up to normal and safe levels. For very small Chihuahuas you should be giving about give the puppy 5cc (1 teaspoon) of corn syrup and for larger dogs .25 - .5 ml per pound of body weight. The effect of the corn syrup will not last very long if the dog is having a hypoglycaemia episode. It is important to get food into your puppy right away. Take your puppy to a Vet ASAP.
Severe Hypoglycemia: If the dog is having seizures and becomes unconscious, you need to give corn syrup immediately. You can rub small amounts on the inside of the dog’s cheeks and on its gums. Call your veterinarian immediately and ask for further instructions. At this point your Chihuahua will probably need to see the doctor. It is also important to follow up with the veterinarian. The puppy may need to be force fed until it is eating properly again. The Vet will probably put the puppy on a special soft food for a while until they are eating their own food again.
TRANSITIONAL DIET FOR YOU CHIHUAHUA
Changing over to an adult program of feeding is not difficult. Very often the puppy will change himself; that is, he will refuse to eat some of his meal. He’ll adjust to his two meals a day without any trouble at all.
If there is a need to change from one brand of puppy (or dog) food to another do so by mixing both foods for a while. This gives your puppy’s system time to get use to the new brand of food. Changing brands of food can often upset the delicate stomach of a puppy or dog. Giving your puppy different flavours or brands of puppy (or dog) food very often cause finicky eaters.
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